Now the kiwi is an endangered nocturnal bird, and very wary in the wild. We met the cruise operator, along with two other bird lovers, and boarded his boat for a 45 minute cruise in the dusk across Patterson Inlet, to Ocean beach. We pulled up to the jetty just as it was getting black outside. After a briefing, we each took a "torch" and followed the guide up the trail into the forest. I have never walked though the bush in the dark, and since it was a moonless night, it was pitch black. We had to stay bunched together and follow the guide as he swung his torch back and forth in the brush, looking for a kiwi. Since they are solitary birds, each having a 6 hectacre territory, this took some time. We reached the beach, across the island without seeing a bird, and I began to wonder if we weren't on a snipe hunt. But we walked up the beach, and the guide found fresh kiwi tracks. After a bit he stopped suddenly and whispered, "There's a kiwi up ahead." So we crept up the beach in pitch darkness, the surf in our ears, the wind blowing cold on our faces until he suddenly spotlit the bird, who was feeding on amphipods, little crustaceans that were popping out of the rotten seaweed like popcorn. The kiwi looked at us a bit, and then fairly briskly walked up off the beach into the driftwood. We kept on down the beach and coming back, were able to spot the same bird again farther down the beach. This time we got up to within 2 meters of the bird while it was feeding. This was great. The bird didn't seem stressed, but kept feeding for a few minutes, plunging its long beak into the sand, before ambling off into the brush. Another hour's walking down the beaches and back through the brush didn't reveal any more birds, although we could hear the males calling in the hills, and answering the guide's birdcall. But we didn't care. We were now some of the few people privileged to see this ancient, strange creature in the wild.
The next morning we woke late and had a good breakfast at the South Sea Motel At noon, we took a water taxi over to Ulva Island. Ulva is a bird sanctuary, and its special because the DOC has eradicated rats on the island. It's also never had deer or possums. We spent the rest of the day walking around the island, watching the bird life and fending off hungry weka. It was a cool beautiful day, and we were treated to red-crowned parakeets, many kaka feeding together, NZ pigeons, bellbirds, tui and South Island robins, and tomtits. The beaches were fabulous. We had lunch on one beach. It struck me that there were only 5 mammals on this huge island that day; the 3 of us and a couple other walkers. You can see our pictures of Stewart Island and Ulva Island in this slideshow.
We were really hungry Saturday night after our walk, and we went to eat at the Church Hill restaurant. The seafood was really great, and the atmosphere quiet and intimate- we were one of only 3 tables served because they were having water problems. The waitress asked us to let her know if we used the toilet because she would have to bring water over from next door. We felt sorry for the staff as they turned other diners (who had not made a booking) away. But they soldiered on, and the food was delicious, including dessert.
Sunday we slept in again, but were in the mood for a longer, steadier walk. We took the trail up to Ryans Creek. This follows an old logging road into the hills in back of town then comes down a gully to the coast and returns back into town along the bays of the Patterson Inlet. We took a side hike up Fern Gully, which had the most ferns per inch of any place I have seen so far in New Zealand- and that is saying a lot! We hiked up to Observation rock and then Vicki and I tramped down the road to Horseshoe bay and back at sunset. I finished the day with muttonbird for supper at the Boardwalk Cafe. Again, we were one of only 3 tables. If you like quiet and few people, I'd recommend Stewart Island in winter. Our weather was cool and brisk at 10 degrees C., but we were lucky to have sun every day. Monday we awoke early for the 0800 ferry and were greeted with the fabulous moonrise/ sunrise, and calm seas for our trip back. It was so clear coming across the Strait, we could see the Humpridge, and behind it the snow covered peaks of Fiordland stretching off into the West. To the North, the Takitumu gleamed in the dawn light, and to the East, the sprinkling of the Titi Islands appeared as we sped over the sea. A great trip to a very special place.
